We were met in the lobby of our hotel by a brother of a friend. Someone we didn’t know. Anticipation about driving off with a stranger was one thing – greeting a man with a kiss was not the stoic Minnesotan thing to do. By the end of the day we had an abundance of hugs and kisses and Denis went from being a stranger to becoming a wonderful friend.
First stop
S.H.A.P. [Self Help Association of Paraplegics (Soweto)]
Entering the shop, it was obvious how much the workers love
Denis. We started our tour with Denis’
ritual of greeting each worker with hugs and kisses. In the shop the disabled
workers were making reflective safety vests for road crews. Their joy moved
us. We helped to distribute packages of
T-shirts from Denis.
Boikanyo and Leeza
Next stop was a visit to a very special 3 year old named
Leeza Kanya. Leeza was learning how to
speak with her trach after 14 surgeries to repair her windpipe after a bad
burn. Leeza is charismatic, familiar with media attention and full of
smiles. Photography might be in her
future because she immediately commandeered Lisa’s camera. The family invited us into their little tin house. Leeza demonstrated her “Dada” “Lisa” and
“Kaffy” in her whispered voice. Mom told us the procedure for suctioning the
trach and Lisa examined the tiny trach and it’s capped opening. Leeza is receipent of the Boikanyo program
benefits. 80,000 Rand ($XXXX) is still
owed and she needs more surgery to close off the trach. However, Boikanyo has more kids to care for so
who knows her future.
Leeza and her mom
Leeza the photographer. (Note the size of their house)
World Cup Soccer
2010 World Cup practice stadium and arena. The arena was created to represent the gourd used to drink African beer.
Practice Stadium
World Cup Stadium
Squatters Camps
Many immigrants come to South Africa from other African countries. We saw many of these temporary housing
settlements in Joburg.
Italian Lunch and Cappuccino
By lunch time, jet lag hit hard. Kathy fell asleep in the back seat a lot. She missed the last 4 times we passed the soccer stadium looking for our way out.
We had some wonderful cappuccino (that we needed badly) with
our savory Italian lunch in Denis’ favorite Italian Deli above a grocery store
and distribution center.
Museum AttemptsIt is hard to visit Johannesburg on a Monday. We tried going to the Apartheid Museum and to the Witts Art Gallery but both were closed. All was not lost however as we learned the way to park in permit parking without a permit: Go to the gate, find out you’re not allowed in, ask if you can just go in to turn around. Instead, go in and park, then sneak out through the gates of the convent school and walk around town. When you return to your car and get to the exit gate tell the security guard “no permit, thanks brother”. Denis has helped us break out of our shells.
A little Joburg car talk: Trunk = Boot, Hood = Bonnet,
Honking = Hooting.
Wanderers Street
In honor of our brother Eric, we had our true adrenaline rush of fear on Wanderers Street. When Denis described where he was taking us and Kathy asked about photos, Denis said “NO CAMERAS”. He told them to put our cameras and purses on the floor and cover them with our coats. He instructed us to lock our doors and not to look like tourists, but assured us “don’t worry, I have shatterproof glass”
The drug gangs inhabit Wanderers Street. This is also the place where we saw immigrants who arrived off the trains with all their belongings in plastic bags. Denis took us to this street so we could see the Nigerians selling coats for 30 Rand (~$4) right out of the bales of clothing that had arrived from the Red Cross.
The street was so crowded we moved at a sails pace with more stops than gos and people walking on all sides of the car. Yes, you could say we were surrounded.
Another lesson we learned in Joburg: Sign language that shows respect to beggars, while telling them no thanks. Through the windshield, lift up right had to acknowledge the person in a friendly way. Next put up both hands together like you’re saying “stop”, thumbs together. Finally spread out your hands to have a space between the thumbs still in the “stop” position. “Say no thanks brother”.
Tea at Tabakins
A little rest after our adrenaline rush was in order so we had a visit to Denis’ home. We shared a pot of Rooibos and Honey Bush tea made in the style of his English grandmother: two tea bags in a pot of hot water, turn the teapot 9 times one way, then 7 times in the opposite direction.
We also spent time looking at the photography of his cousin Steve Bloom. Amazing, check it out at www.SteveBloom.com
Dinner at Moyo’s
We were met at the door on this chilly night with a hot cup of spiced wine. After we were seated at our table, our server brought us a pitcher of rose water, basin and warm towel to wash. As you can tell, we ended our day on a different side of town.
24 hours later Lisa is still thinking about her ostrich and
mashed pumpkin. Kathy’s lamb tangine was amazing.
Face painting, fireplace, strolling minstrels and great
company complemented an outstanding meal.
If you have a chance to visit Moyo’s in Joburg, check out
the loo – it is unforgettable but photos are not available on this family
oriented blog (Check with Lisa or Kathy for more information on this topic).
No comments:
Post a Comment